Jin Dao Xia Gorge(ous)

Yesterday I had the most incredible 4 hour + hike up the Jin Dao Xia Gorge with a really fun group of people. We started at the bottom, later learning as we went up that everyone starts at the top and goes down. If I were to do it again, I'd still go from the bottom to the top - it's a workout no doubt but it's a beautiful gradual hike that is also thoroughly enjoyable.
We ate our lunch at the bottom in a little restaurant, pictured above and below, that sells xiao mian, a type of spicy noodle with water spinach. They had 2-3 day old puppies meowling in a corner.

We then proceeded to start the 4 hour + hike thinking it was 1-2 hours. All along the way there was much debate about the true length of the hike as well as the amount of time it would take to do it all. We asked a minimum of 10 groups along the way (both foreigners and Chinese hikers) how long it had taken them to get to the point where we were asking them - everyone said "ooohhh, about two hours". Every single time. I spent the whole hike going up, laughing. Every single person said two hours, even at the top! A bizarre time conundrum we never quite figured out. At some point when we were past the mid point and stopped for some water, we asked the guy selling water if there was a shorter way and he said "If you go straight, it's 1 hour, if you go back and up the other path it's one hour less...". Go figure. It takes 0 minutes?!

The time was irrelevant anyway, the hike was so spectacular I wouldn't have done it any other way. You walk along a wooden plank platform that's been somehow nailed together and attached by metal clamps (not sure I'm doing this description any service as I'm no civil engineer) along the wall of the gorge, anywhere from 30-60 feet up (or more at times). I have no clue how they built this, but it felt sturdy and it enabled you to walk through a gorge high up, enjoying a scenery which you wouldn't have otherwise.

Along the way we came across a relatively large pool/lake in between the mountains and we hopped in a little boat and were taken to the continuation of the path. I have to applaud the Chinese government or their environmental/forestry department for having created such a seamless and discreet hike without doing a disservice to the nature.

The last stretch of the hike was a vertical climb up stairs for about an hour and that's where these guys with make shift chairs show up and ask if you want to be carried up. No, thanks. I was afraid to be dropped, plus I really was enjoying the hike through the last crazy bit. I do think it's a worthwhile service for those who sprain an ankle or who simply can't get up. Though you wonder if someone much larger than them were to arrive and say yes...would these slim albeit strong guys be able to do it? Hmm.... At the very top/end of the hike, a lady was selling fresh Shan Yao (mountain yam) which just so happens to be a Chinese medicinal herb I've studied but never tried fresh. One of my hiking companions who was very cool and from Japan shared a tasty Japanese recipe I will be trying soon with the Shan Yao I purchased.

I almost forgot to mention the original purpose of this hike was a partnership between National Geographic and the Intercontinental Hotel in Chongqing to promote nature awareness. That's the (stuffed toy) penguin mascot below with FanFan, we took pictures of the end of our hike, with our wild hair, sweatiness, and the stuffed toy penguin. It was a GREAT day!!!!

Hanging Off the Side of a Building

See this guy in the picture above? He's hanging from two ropes and some girdle-like thing off the building we're staying in, we're on the 23rd floor. He swings back and forth across the building with a window washing contraption, back and forth, back and forth, swinging.... on two ropes. We saw this from the ground and were mesmerized watching as they did this. I have no idea how they do it elsewhere in the world as I haven't had the opportunity to watch, but the skill with which they do it here and the little (perceived safety) equipment used is fascinating. This guy was swinging outside my window whilst laughing and chatting to another guy doing the same right next to him. See the picture below? That's what it looks like from where he's hanging.

The Sun is OUT!

Here's a sunny day in Chongqing. It was lovely. Breezy light air, almost clear blue skies with just a few puffy clouds quilting the air. It's not that it's never sunny, it's that it's rarely sunny. Like England. Or maybe Seattle. It looks like a moody futuristic film most of the time. So it's pretty sweet to wake up to a bit of breezy blue.

I'm a big fan of grey too, don't get me wrong, but blue makes you see things you wouldn't otherwise see. It makes you more able to go slower, push less, cause there is a lot of pushing here.... I still got slammed into in the grocery store but instead of a strong nudge back I was like go ahead, whatevah! Here's to some clear skies!

First Package and Taxi Rides

This is the inside of a taxi in Chongqing. There are no safety belts so if they break really hard it might hurt a tad hitting the metal bars separating you from the taxi driver. In the end, like most things in life, it just becomes part of the landscape and you barely notice. That's why I'm taking pictures of these things that pop out at me either from being "Oh wow, no way" about it or because everything is still so fresh you can actually see it.

In addition to getting the keys to our new digs, we also got our first package (thank you David and Vanessa)! It's so exciting getting snail mail. I love it!!! Here's S opening it up, he's like a kid with packages. Inside were postcards, a red Chinese New Year envelope with a flower wrapped in cotton, 2 new key chains for our new keys (so thoughtful), and a few other fun things. Friends are good. Life is good!

Food Paranoia!

It's official, I almost lost the plot yesterday whilst shopping for food (we are back in Chongqing). Given what I do for a living, studying the use of food as medicine, I think I perhaps know a little too much. In 2006 when I lived in Beijing I'm sure things weren't that much better but I was still in my hardcore stage of I can eat it all, anywhere, anytime, my stomach is a fortress - nothing can get me! Now, I'm the opposite, it's funny how things change so quickly (it's only been 5 years afterall). I walked through the Metro market (the equivalent of a Carrefour, which they also have here but it's not as good) and I found myself doubting each and every purchase.

Is there clenbuterol in this pork (causes nausea, dizzyness, and possibly - hip hip hooray - twitching!)? Are these chickens jacked up on hormones (here's to my third boob)? Do we really need to drink tea with milk (melamine tainted milk killed, forget twitching!, 6 babies and sickened 300,000 in 2008)? How about this, is this duck expired or is the organic pork really "organic" (Walmart was just fined a not so whopping $421,894 for doing this RECENTLY, they make um, billions, do they really need the extra profit margin?)?? Hmm, is this vinegar or industrial grade acid? Cause, I really want to drizzle some acid on my salad. No, really, it tastes awesome.

In 2006 in Beijing I admit to hearing bits and bobs here and there about some possibly fake xiao long bao being sold on the street (made out of cardboard boxes that were reconstituted as dough, don't ask how), but I said, oh no, not my sweet amazing xiao long bao place down the street. And I continued on my way. I got sick a few times, but I overall survived and am still standing 5 years later. I also had a lot more fun shopping for food, cooking, dreaming up recipes, perceiving how fresh everything was, and just generally going about my way. But now. I'm freaking out in the supermarket. Forget Jewel Osco, that looks like food heaven compared to China right now! How about the even more recent (as in a few days ago) fake oil scandal? They are selling fake oil made from leftovers at restaurants that have been scrapped and tossed in bins and gutters!

Meanwhile, government officials, uber wealthy Chinese, and top athletes have access to their own stash of organic vegetables, hormone-free pigs, chickens, the whole gamut. They're sitting pretty having glorious meals while the rest of the country is wondering if what they're eating is real, expired, or will make them dance the funky chicken after a few weeks of eating. I can't say the US is all that much better with their meat glue, chicken breast mania leading to chickens jacked up on hormones so their breasts can be big and white enough to shrink wrap in plastic on shelves.... I could go on. But I should probably stop. I told you I lost the plot yesterday.

How to go about this conundrum with positivity and knowledge? That, I am figuring out. I came away with only imported oils and vinegars, I bought some pork and lamb reluctantly, and the vegetables will just have to soaked for longer. Is anyone else out there who knows something they want to share about food safety in China? Please share. I'd love to hear I'm just being paranoid and what's on the shelves here is really not so bad. Though I doubt that's the case and I am sure I'll still be standing in a few years after living here once again, I only hope I'm not doing the funky chicken dance.

Afternoon Walkin'

So happy to be back in China. I left in 2006 with the hopes to be back a few months later, it took 5 years to get back, but I'm here - and I LOVE IT. An afternoon stroll through Shanghai...

Psychedelic fountain.

Fun.

Fancy pants Nanjing Road.

French concession, crisp air, sunny day.

Little chairs lined up in front of French restaurant.

Strollin'. It's good to be 'old' here, everyone gets out and walks around, no keeping people isolated.

Shanghai Forever bicycle in the front. No Beijing Flying Pigeon bicycles in sight.

More chairs to chill in on a street corner. Chairs everywhere to chill in on every corner! No corner under utilized.

Monchichi obsession (this makes me very happy!). Mochichi's in bee costumes, monchichi's in tiger costumes, monchichi's getting married, enormous monchichi's, and tiny monchichi's.

Monchichi's up close.

Crazy architecture.

Same building, from the ground view.

Mornings

This was the gorgeous sunrise this morning in Shanghai.

Then we got the booth for breakfast (score!).

And, a nice congee with one bao zi, two jiao zi, a little vinegar and a little la jiao. Good way to start the day!

Writing in Shanghai

This week I've been whiling away the days writing to get my Spice Doc site finished and up, currently it's still only functioning as a blog (it has been a year+++ since the comprehensive site idea manifested, 6 months since it began with my fabulous designer, and finally 2 months with my awesome programmer). I'm dying for this to be done! But it's going to take more time than expected, I need to dig in, write, then write some more, and then write again! Revise. Write. Regroup. This blog helps to fill in the moments of blank staring and procrastination when I don't know where to begin.

I have a nice view from the hotel here. Truth be told there are few blue sky days, though the air is pretty crisp and the streets in the French concession district are spectacular. I'll post pix of those soon when I go for a walk today. Besides the Xiao Long Bao at Din Tai Fung, we've only gone on one other adventurous meal to Shintori, a new fab Japanese restaurant off a little hidden path in the French concession, leading you down a bamboo lined path with dim lights, through two large beautiful wooden automated sliding doors, into a humongous loft-like space with sexy lighting, bare concrete walls, an open kitchen, etc etc - food was great, service was spotty, crowd was fun to watch (sake cup selection in below picture).

Boy has Shanghai changed! It's only been a week that we've been here and the last time I was here was 5 years ago but it hardly feels like being in China, whatever that may mean. It's more like an amalgam of all the major international cities (New York, Hong Kong, London...) where you could be anywhere and if you wake up from a dream it's hard to remember where exactly. Which I've been doing consistently for a week now. Add to that incessant nightmares about packing and always finding another cupboard or drawer or whole entire room that hasn't been packed and shipped! Argh. Who knew stuff could occupy your brain in such a profound way. Chuck it all out! Anyhow, today my goal besides working hard on Spice Doc biz is to find a proper medical foot massage. I checked out Dragonfly Spa and while the setting is gorgeous and the service is great, it's not a real medical foot massage in my opinion. I would rather have less frills and more medicine.

Dumplings and Check Ups

It's been 6 years since I've stepped foot in my favorite chain restaurant (I am not generally a fan of chain restaurants at all), but Din Tai Fung is in a class of it's own. The menu is relatively small and manageable, and the specialty of Xiao Long Bao (soupy dumplings) is done in an exemplary fashion. They do not have one in Chongqing, but they do have them in Shanghai (more than one), Beijing, Taipei, Kuala Lumpur, L.A., Seattle, Guangzhou, Sydney, and I don't remember where else.

They have the basic pork, then pork with hairy crab, mushroom medley, chicken with truffles (this is a new one I hadn't seen before, must try!), and a few others I can't recall. We ordered the basic pork and the pork and hairy crab. Plus two of my favorite veg dishes : the crispy green beans, and the wild greens with preserved bean curd. Woohooo! If you have never had a xiao long bao, the technique is to gently pinch the bao from the top with your chopsticks (maybe there are many techniques actually, this is mine) land it on your soup spoon without letting the soupiness in the dumpling spill out or crack through the thin layered dumpling, add a sliver of thin sliced ginger, a splash of soy and/or dark vinegar, and some la jiao/chile if you are so inclined. Then, either gently make a hole with your mouth on the side of the soupy dumpling in order to release some steam (they can be HOT) followed by slurping some soup and the whole thing at once, or you can forgo the caution and open wide - in it goes, bite, chew, salty soup in your mouth.

This all made up for the next day's insane medical check up for our resident permit. I have no pictures to share as I doubt they would have appreciated me snapping away there. You go into room 1 where you fill out all your paperwork first, ensuring you don't have any diseases or even a flu. Then, you go into room 2 and 3, and they ask you a few questions I can't even recall now. They stamp the paperwork, take an unflattering picture with a camera that looks like a futuristic eyeball coming at you from below your chin, great, and herd you into the room 4. There, they weigh you on this giant cattle-like scale which tells your height and weight, send you into the changing room to disrobe your top half and out into rooms 5-12 or something like that. In reality it was rooms 108, room 102, all very confusing.

S had to wear a teeny tiny robe made for a teeny tiny Chinese woman and it was so hilarious I almost died (also wish I could have snapped a picture but doubt he would have appreciated it on here, so you'll just have to imagine the scenario). He had it tied up around his armpits practically. None of the other foreigners looked that much better, including me. You're all sitting with your paperwork in hand getting thrown into one room after the other where they apply clamps, do ultrasounds, take xrays, draw blood, call you fat (it seems we all got this, unfortunately), palpate your abdomen, and do an eye test I don't think anyone can pass. It was letters that were miniscule. Or maybe my eyes are that bad.

Needless to say, hope our paperwork was processed smoothly and we aren't denied a visa for being too fat or too myopic! Must cut back on xiao long bao and stop using the computer.